I recently picked up a used 10-string Railboard with MIDI from Reverb for a nice price. I found out from Grace what the original tuning was based on the serial number, but I'm not sure if that's what the current tuning is supposed to be since it's from 2017 and people sometimes experiment with different tunings. I have some general observations/questions that don't fall neatly into a single topic:

1. The lowest bass strings rattle against the fretboard quite a bit in some places, which usually doesn't affect the amplified tone but sometimes can be heard through the speakers. Simultaneously, those same low strings 'ring out' quite a bit when I release them, as if they aren't close enough to the damper. Should I lower the action at the nut or try to dial in the right setting with the two truss rod adjustment points?

2. The melody strings feel pretty slinky, even when tuned to pitch (Raised Matched Reciprocal). Slight variations in tapping pressure seem to significantly affect intonation with such low string tension. This is my first real Chapman Stick instrument--I've been playing an NS/Stick for about 12 years--so I'm not sure whether this is intended or not.

3. A general question given the above two points: would a Stick Enterprises setup and restring to my preferred tuning be a wise option before I mess with anything else, given the lack of info on which tuning/string gauges are currently on this instrument?

Thank you!

Used Stick, strings of possibly unknown vintage, some questions about / possible issues with the setup, first experience with that kind of instrument, desire to change the tuning ...

Especially if you're planning on the self-taught route (which is most Stick players), I sure would strongly consider getting SE to restore it to "from the shop" condition. A lot less second-guessing yourself while learning - would be worth it IMO.

If you could post a photo of the bridge from above I could tell you more about the strings.

Don't know the NS Bass but you need very, as in VERY, little pressure in your tapping fingers on the Stick ... takes a while to get accustomed to that

I emailed the company about getting the instrument set up to factory specs, and they said there's a bit of a waitlist for setups and repairs... about a year!

That won't do, so I'll start looking into other options. Greg, I'll get a pic of the bridge later today hopefully. Do you still do video calls to help with setup issues? Should I message you directly?

I've watched this video a few times. With the Railboard truss adjustable from the nut end as well as the belt end, there is a little more potential for complexity (and thus for me getting things wrong!).

Interestingly, even with the truss pretty tight in the 'low action' direction, I don't get the usual fret buzz on the first few frets that I would expect on a guitar or bass, for instance. And for the two thickest strings, even with the truss pushing the strings away pretty dramatically, there is still some buzzing here and there. I'm probably misunderstanding a basic concept about this, which is why I hope Greg can work with me.

Yes, I do setup lessons remotely. Several people on the forum have had them with me.

It would be nice for folks here to have the benefit of some discussion about it, though. If you could post a photo here that would facilitate that as a first step.

I'm in a similar position. I've never seen, let alone touched, a properly set up Stick, so I've been on a steep learning curve, aided by folk here including Greg. I'm still working on it...

For checking & maintaining a flat fretboard I've found a proper straight edge very useful. With my very strong prescription lenses I'd not like to just trust to eye. LOL!

For a Stick it's the level along the frets we're interested in so the notched guitar straight edges you usually see are not ideal.

Having had it recommended by Stickist member @KenCardita on Bob Culbertson's Saturday Zoom call I got one of these. Even with international shipping (I'm in the UK) it was a better option than anything I could find this side of the Atlantic.

I've been very pleased with it.

ok here's the thing about Railboards: when an instrument is ordered, and please someone correct me if I am wrong here - I'm just going by my experience with my RB-8.... when a Railboard is ordered, the tuning is selected, and the CNC machining process includes a fret job [for lack of a better term] which machines the frets for that particular tuning.

Since you have a 10 string, I'm going to assume it is set up in the divided 5 + 5 fashion, so hopefully the way the frets were initially machined should work, actually will work for whatever the original tuning is/was...

If you look closely at your fingerboard, you should see some frets especially where the heaviest strings are that are really machined down, in some cases quite severely.

I was hoping I had some better pictures, but if you look closely at the picture I have provided here, by the heaviest gauge string, you can see that the fret has been machined down.

So, because I opted for a undivided fingerboard, in my case what is referred to Crafty tuning, there is no possible way I could go with a 4 + 4 divided fingerboard like a traditional Stick so to speak, where the heaviest strings run down the center.

I am assuming - hoping - that all your problems can be solved at the bridge end regarding any set up issues.

Good Luck !!