I found some papers in the bottom of my Railboard case.
They pertain to How to setup your Stick and truss rod.

I've scanned these papers into one Pdf file.
This might be handy for future reference?

I had some of those, but not all. Thank you.

Thanks for this! I've also placed this file into the "Downloads" section of this site.

many thanks from this Stick newbie! it’ll be of big help while I’m trying to dial my new instrument in.

Timely since I recently switched from RMR to DBR. I did not have these papers in my Railboard case, or at least I don't anymore. Thank you, WerkSpace!!

I worked on my Railboard setup tonight. I wanted to see if I could get my string clearance even closer and I had some success.

I decided to make the fretboard absolutely flat by wiggling a straight edge gently across all frets simultaneously. I adjusted the truss rod. When I could feel rubbing friction between the frets and the straight edge at both ends and in the middle, I knew that the fretboard was absolutely flat. I also made sure that the straight edge did not rock back and forth along the fretboard.

After the fretboard was absolutely flat, I was able to get the string clearance even closer, by lowering the nut flaps until the string would not make any sound when tapping on the first fret and then raising the nut flap until it starting making a clean tone again. This ensures that I'm truly as low as I can go while still getting good tones.

The final step was to adjust the bridge height screws to match my playing style. If I played softly, the strings did not buzz. But, if I tapped the strings harder, I could get the strings to buzz. This makes perfect sense to me. So, I adjusted the bridge screws higher to match my playing style.

I use one of these straight edges for that: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264973369303

The thickness is handy because it allows it to stand in its edge unsupported, leaving both hands free if you need them to adjust or check something.


Good point. I agree that personal 'touch' technique is probably the final aspect in defining the minimum action height for any individual player.

So using a 24” straightedge on a 36” (or34”) neck works? Easily?
I googled after looking at david’s link, and found there are 36” devices available. Expensive, but available.
Still, a wonderful seeming tool, if you are doing that stuff.
Tks

Yes. You don't need to reach as far as the bridge. It's the fretted part of the neck you are checking, so you don't need a full 36" or 34" straight edge. The one I have isn't quite long enough to go all the way from fret 0 to fret 24, but it can manage from fret 1 to fret 24 & that's just fine.

On the Railboard, from the first fret to the last fret is just under 24".
A 24" straight edge is the correct size to purchase.