My stick was made in the year 2000. It has a 'single action' truss rod.
Above the nut is a metal plate. Below the nut is wood (no plate).

Does this mean i am to ONLY turn the nut in a direction towards the truss plate?

Is is acceptable and standard practice to turn into the wood to adjust the neck in the other direction?

yes it is acceptable - if you don't have a double width truss wrench, get one. they are easier to use

watch this video for more info https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fx8LQS7Et1g

https://stick-enterprises-store.myshopify.com/collections/cables/products/truss-adjustment-wrench

yes it is acceptable - if you don't have a double width truss wrench, get one. they are easier to use

watch this video for more info https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fx8LQS7Et1g

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Thanks!

It just felt 'wrong' to put pressure against the wood, when a metal plate was provided for the other direction.

Normally, the truss rod is designed to tension the wood,
to counteract the string tension on the opposite side.

If your Stick requires compression to keep the fretboard straight,
I would consider gluing in a metal insert to protect the wood.

Not a bad idea. Just gotta find a tiny piece of metal that fits.

Wonder if SE would sell me one?

Perhaps, visit a hardware store and explain to them
what you are trying to do. They are usually helpful.

i assume your fretboard has an arch in it? correct? is the threaded end up against (or very close to) the wood ? if not that seems a bit unusual ( i think ) -- anyways from: https://stick.com/instruments/tech/setup/

With the instrument on, insert the wrench from the left side. Push the wrench away from you to raise the action, and pull it towards you to lower it.
Put the instrument on to adjust the truss. If the fretboard is "bowed," with the middle of the instrument curving away from the strings, insert the truss wrench from the left side and pull it back towards your body slightly. It doesn't take much tension to get it straight. You will know you have gone too far if the strings buzz near the nut. If the instrument has an "arch", where the middle of the fretboard is curving closer to the strings, loosen the truss by pushing the wrench away from you (again with the wrench on your left side as you wear the instrument). In some extreme cases loosening the truss is not enough to correct an arch. If this happens, loosen the truss nut all the way until it is spinning freely on the bolt. Keep turning until the nut is against the wood at the end of the screw threads, and tighten it against the wood to lengthen the truss and compensate for the arch.

Check your truss adjustment frequently before you play, and get comfortable with adjusting it. The lower the action, the easier and more dynamic tapping is. Don't forget to check your tuning after you adjust the truss. Tightening the truss will make the strings sharper, and loosening the truss will make them flatter. For more information on truss adjustment watch this video:

Lots of great information here. In addition to the DBR reciprocal tuning video, I believe this to be the most relevant video on the matter. Greg. Start at about 1:43, Greg covers it all.